Water. This is where it all begins. The human body consists of approximately 65% water, 15% of which is located in the skin. It is also where the process of transepidermal water loss occurs, during which individual layers of the skin are irrigated. A properly developed hydrolipid coat of the stratum corneum inhibits the evaporation process, but its damage prevents the water in the dermis from flowing to the epidermis, resulting in dry, dehydrated skin.
What could be causing this?
- external factors such as cold, wind, pollution, dry, heated air,
- drinking alcohol and smoking cigarettes,
- stress and fatigue,
- some medications
- selected cosmetics, cleaning products and detergents.
Dehydrated and dry skin
Even though the symptoms of dehydrated and dry skin are similar, they should not be confused. Dehydration is a temporary condition that may also affect oily or combination skin, while dry skin is one of the skin types. What then indicates that it is insufficiently moisturized?
- Loss of shine and elasticity
- Intense feeling of tightness - especially after washing
- Peeling
- Itching and/or burning
- Enlarged skin pores
- Rough places
How to deal with this?
Exactly the same when we want to quench our thirst - with water! The right amount of water consumed daily is the basis, without which even the best care will be ineffective.
Depending on gender and weight, you should drink 1.5 to 2 liters of fluids a day.
The next step is properly selected care. Its basis should be delicate cleansing cosmetics without alcohol. Mild milks, micellar fluids or emollient facial gels that create a protective film on the skin surface will work well here. Dehydrated skin is often irritated, but this does not mean giving up exfoliation completely. However, you should replace the classic peeling with large particles with a milder enzymatic peeling. Although protection against UV radiation is important for all skin types, dehydrated skin's protective barrier is damaged and therefore more susceptible to its harmful effects. Don't be fooled by the cloudy autumn weather, the sun shines even then. Cosmetics for dehydrated skin should therefore provide protection against UV and intensively moisturize it, i.e. contain substances that bind water in the deeper layers of the epidermis. Such ingredients include, among others: glycerol, sorbitol or hyaluronic acid and urea, which are also supported by vitamin E, panthenol, vegetable glycerin and urea. Some of them not only have a moisturizing effect, but also protect against smog. Do you want to additionally protect your skin against external factors and pollution? Look for products that contain anti-pollution ingredients.
The magic of ingredients
So what should you pay attention to when checking cosmetics labels?
Hyaluronic acid - it is a substance naturally occurring in the human body. Most hyaluronic acid is found in the skin, synovial fluid and vitreous body of the eye. Every day, approximately 30% of the acid breaks down and is replaced by new molecules. Hyaluronic acid is a humectant, i.e. a substance that binds water, so its gradual, inevitable degeneration causes wrinkles and sagging and dry skin.
Urea - another ingredient from the humectant family. Like hyaluronic acid, it also occurs naturally in our body and protects the skin against water evaporating too quickly. It also strengthens the tightness of the epidermis. In cosmetics, urea is known as carbamimidic acid, isourea or 75 urea and may be present in various concentrations, which determines its effectiveness. The urea content may vary from 2 to 50%. In popular moisturizing creams, its concentration is approximately 2%, 10% urea is used in preparations for acne-prone skin, 30-40% has an exfoliating effect and can be found in peels and treatments for excessively keratinized skin. The highest concentration of urea is found in prescription preparations used to treat psoriasis and atopic dermatitis.
Collagen - legendary anti-wrinkle ingredient. And in fact, collagen fibers are responsible for maintaining the density, firmness and elasticity of the skin. However, few of us know that collagen also has the ability to regulate the water balance of the skin, thanks to which it has a positive effect not only on mature skin, but also on problematic skin. Moisturized skin does not have to produce excessive amounts of sebum, which is responsible for acne and pimples.
Vitamin E - not without reason called the vitamin of youth. It is a strong antioxidant substance that protects cells against damage by free radicals, i.e. free oxygen atoms that destroy the structure of cells (e.g. DNA). Vitamin E plays an important role in maintaining proper skin hydration because it influences the condition of its lipid layer. In addition, it is responsible for the regeneration of skin, hair and nails, smoothes wrinkles and soothes irritations.
Panthenol - in other words, provitamin B5, like hyaluronic acid, naturally occurs in human skin, hair and nails and also acts as a humectant. Panthenol improves skin hydration, soothes irritations and redness. It is especially recommended for people with flaky, tight and dry skin. Thanks to its regenerative properties, it accelerates the healing of wounds, scratches and burns.
Vegetable glycerin - it is obtained from fat derived from plants, most often coconut oil. It is a highly hygroscopic substance, which means that it absorbs water very well. Hence its very common use in creams and lipsticks, including those intended to combat frost and wind. Thanks to small particles, glycerin easily penetrates deep into the epidermis, helping to transport other nutrients in the skin.
Karolina, November 4, 2019
